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Sanctuary of San Giovanni: A Journey of Faith and History in the Roman Catacombs

The Sanctuary dedicated to San Giovanni in Rome is a place steeped in history, faith, and mystery, closely linked to the ancient catacombs and the martyrs who witnessed their faith along the Via Salaria. This site, rich in spirituality, offers a unique experience for pilgrims and enthusiasts of history and archaeology.

The Origins: From the Catacomb to the Subterranean Church

The history of the sanctuary has its roots in the catacombs ad clivum cucumeris, a vast paleo-Christian cemetery complex. As early as the 7th century, a subterranean church (built above the catacomb) was erected to honor the memory of the martyr. Ancient testimonies, such as the Itineraries from this period, mention this sacred place. Beneath the altar of the church, the most precious relic was kept: the head of the martyr.

The “Notitia Ecclesiarum” describes the place as Ecclesia S. Iohannis martyris, ubi caput eius in alio loco sub altare ponitur, in alio corpus, highlighting the distinction between the burial place of the body and the preservation of the relic of the head. From this peculiarity comes the name of the cemetery as ad caput S. Iohannis.

San Giovanni: Presbyter and Necrophorus

The earliest attestations of the cult of San Giovanni date back to the Hieronymian Martyrology. The figure of Giovanni emerges as a presbyter necrophorus, present in many passiones of martyrs, especially those linked to the Via Salaria and the cemetery ad clivum cucumeris. This recurrence suggests that, given his great popularity in the 6th-7th century, the compilers of these accounts inserted him as a stereotypical character, perhaps due to the scarcity of information about his true identity.

A later tradition recounts that Giovanni was beheaded on the Via Salaria, in front of a simulacrum of the Sun, during the reign of Emperor Julian. His body was reportedly collected by a priest named Concordio, who buried it in a sarcophagus in the crypt.

Relics and Translations: A Path of Devotion

The year 899 marks the approximate abandonment of the cemetery, in an era when many suburban sanctuaries of Rome fell into disuse following the translation of relics into urban churches. It is uncertain whether the Giovanni mentioned in the list of saints whose relics were transported by Pope Paschal I to Santa Prassede is the same martyr of the Via Salaria. It is possible that it is an anonymous martyr, especially considering that our Giovanni is described in various passiones as a presbyter, while the Giovanni in Paschal I’s list is not listed among the presbyters.

A tradition recounts that the remains of this martyr were translated by a certain Igizo (along with Saints Blastus and Longinus) only in the 10th or 12th century. An inscription from the 11th-12th century recalls the transport of some relics of Giovanni to the church of San Marcello, along with those of Blastus, Longinus, and Diogenes.

A Sanctuary to Discover: Faith, History, and Possible “Treasure Hunts”

The Sanctuary of San Giovanni offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the history of Roman Christianity. The visit to the catacombs, with their underground galleries and the testimonies of faith of the early Christians, is a touching and evocative experience.

Ideas for a spiritual “treasure hunt”:

• Search for Inscriptions: In the catacombs, look for ancient funerary inscriptions, symbols, and graffiti left by the early Christians. Each mark is a testimony of faith and hope.
• Identify the Burial Places of the Martyrs: Try to identify, with the help of expert guides, the places where the martyrs were buried, often marked by particular decorations or inscriptions.
• The Martyr’s Crypt: If accessible, seek the crypt where, according to tradition, San Giovanni was buried. Imagine the scene of his burial and the respect with which his body was honored.
• Paleo-Christian Symbols: Identify and try to interpret the paleo-Christian symbols present in the catacombs, such as the fish (Ichthys), the anchor, and the monogram of Christ.

In addition to visiting the catacombs, it is recommended to delve into the lives of the saints linked to the sanctuary, such as San Blastus and San Longinus, to better understand the historical and spiritual context of the place. Their stories of faith and courage can be a source of inspiration for visitors.

The Sanctuary of San Giovanni is not only a place of worship but also a site of great historical and cultural interest. Its exploration offers a unique opportunity to connect faith with the discovery of the roots of Roman Christianity.

Piazza dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, 00184 Roma, Italy